Samarkand courtyards before the crowds
Which madrasa to enter first, which to leave for evening and where the best light falls.
October 17, 2026 · 11 min
Getting between the towns by train and car
The fast train, the shared car and the long road, with what each one is like.
Newsletter
The Caravan Letter
A free letter every Thursday: one stop on the old road, one thing to look at and one thing to know before you go.
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8 min read
How many days each town needs
A plain rule of thumb for four old towns, and how to change it when you are tired.