Khiva inside the walls, early and late
One small walled town at sunrise and again at dusk, and why I would give it two nights.
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Latest posts
A new post every Thursday from the old road: one town, one courtyard, one thing to look at.
10 min read
Spotting tiles on a madrasa wall
Blue, turquoise and white: how I read a wall of tiles in five minutes, and where the chips show how they were made.
8 min read
Sleeping in a caravanserai courtyard
A square of old stone rooms around a yard, and what it is like to wake up where the camel trains stopped.
7 min read
Watching paper being made in Samarkand
8 min read
The observatory hill at low sun
9 min read
Samarkand courtyards before the crowds
11 min read
Getting between the towns by train and car
8 min read
How many days each town needs
7 min read
Packing for dust, sun and cold courtyards
9 min read
Starting in Tashkent: a first day
Newsletter
The Caravan Letter
A free letter every Thursday: one stop on the old road, one thing to look at and one thing to know before you go.