Sleeping in a caravanserai courtyard
A square of old stone rooms around a yard, and what it is like to wake up where the camel trains stopped.
November 2, 2026 · 7 min
Watching paper being made in Samarkand
Mulberry bark, a stone vat and a sheet lifted out wet: an hour at a workshop worth the detour.
Newsletter
The Caravan Letter
A free letter every Thursday: one stop on the old road, one thing to look at and one thing to know before you go.
More posts
8 min read
The observatory hill at low sun
A curved brick trench on a dry hill, mulberry trees below and almost no one else.