November 5, 2026 · 9 min
Khiva inside the walls, early and late
One small walled town at sunrise and again at dusk, and why I would give it two nights.
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The Caravan Letter
A free letter every Thursday: one stop on the old road, one thing to look at and one thing to know before you go.
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Spotting tiles on a madrasa wall
Blue, turquoise and white: how I read a wall of tiles in five minutes, and where the chips show how they were made.