Khiva inside the walls, early and late
One small walled town at sunrise and again at dusk, and why I would give it two nights.
November 4, 2026 · 10 min
Spotting tiles on a madrasa wall
Blue, turquoise and white: how I read a wall of tiles in five minutes, and where the chips show how they were made.
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The Caravan Letter
A free letter every Thursday: one stop on the old road, one thing to look at and one thing to know before you go.
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8 min read
Sleeping in a caravanserai courtyard
A square of old stone rooms around a yard, and what it is like to wake up where the camel trains stopped.